A lot can be learned about a country through the windows on a train.
Between Athens and Kalambaka there is inconsistent weather patterns ranging from just cold, to cold and rainy to whiteout snow conditions. The mountains range from mere hills to towering slopes.
As evident as crisis is in the solemn attitudes of the inner city Greeks, it is ever more so profound on the way to the train station where buildings stand empty or settle into accepting their graffiti ladened facades. Train is packed, not an empty seat this AM. Several tourists. Many more commuters. I pay attention to the stops and how many people get off, and to where they came from, and why they commute so far.
Missing between these two destinations is industry. Miles of factories that pluck up from time to time are all vacant and succumbing to the condition of neglect, half falling down. Farms are abundant, none are growing winter vegetables, all seem to be placeholders for the warmer seasons. Farm animals are non-existent. Zero animals have been spotted between these destinations. Communities are sparse, zero are connected by paved roads. Most homes are seemingly in a state of disrepair or paused amidst renovations--some with gaping, unfinished second stories. All waiting for more abundant times.
Since so few commuters left the train so far or got on at each stop, I imagine Kalambaka to be a bountiful city.
Reflecting on where we came from, James and I recall another missing aspect of Greece; so far---no sirens. Plenty of police---seemingly no emergencies. No fire trucks, no ambulances, and very few homeless along the streets day or night. This is astonishing in relation to the profound graffiti in the city, vacant buildings, over crowded streets, tourists, immigrants, refugees, and the low wage potential (our Russian taxi driver said, "...$600/month on average due to 48% tax," our e-bike tour guide said, "Even when Greeks make only $500/month and take in over 300,000 refugees from Syria, we will always offer a glass of water and let you sit and enjoy for awhile without bother."). In a country starving for better fiscal times, suspended in the midst of financial crisis, they may have less concern for crime and emergency services compared to everywhere I have ever been inside the states during an era of workforce confidence. This is a remarkable Greek feature. I am not sure what to make of this.
Four hours into our four---now five--hour journey, we spied the first industry...bees for the Greek honey used in several traditional dishes and sold widely in souvenir shops. There were also exactly two horses in one single stable along the tracks. Kardista and every stop closer to Kalambaka seems like a more affluent town relative to everywhere else between Athens and Kalambaka.
And finally Kalambaka. Yes, it is bountiful in comparison. The draw here in this small village is the majestic towering rocks known as Meteora. This is a relatively new tourist attraction, as it was previously widely unheard of until the 1981 James Bond 007 For Your Eyes Only film premiered and drew interest to the location of Meteora.
The draw pulls in approximately 2 million tourists annually (the majority in summer months), a figure every tour guide and taxi driver is proud to announce. So impactful are the rock caves and monasteries where the hermets, monks, and nuns have lived for the last thousand years that the town of Kalambaka determines the level of Christmas decorations they hang by the amount of winter reservations they get from overseas. Our taxi driver informed us this year they put up many decorations because many tourists were planning on being here and they had to put on a good showing.
Greece is not a place of tipping for services but whenever we tip them (as is a natural habit for us), they are ecstatic. We were not cool or hip enough to get into the popular Greek restaurants in town (mostly our timing was poor) and the majority of restaurants were standing room only. After being informed that a typical Greek meal can last for hours, we chose not to wait and instead went to the next best option, Greek style pizza and pasta. It was just us, and the family was so grateful to serve us. The young granddaughter (maybe 14 or 15) acted as if the 20% tip (6 Euros) we left might afford her a college education. She was so grateful for the tip.
Our taxi driver was so gracious for an extra 3 Euros that, unbeknownst to us, he waited in the Taxi zone and then took us back to our hotel when we stumbled upon his car grateful to find a taxi at 10pm so we could get out of the cold. Efharisto! Efharisto! (Thank you! Thank you!)
Kalambaka is the first place we have seen restaurants known for gyros and baklava. We have yet to find what Americans believe to be a "Mediterranean Diet." Typical menu items include: meatballs, souvlaki (meat kebabs), pork chops. The appetizers have Tzatziki (for bread), feta and honey, fried cheese balls, and rarely pita bread. Never have we seen falafel, dolmades (stuffed grape vine leaves), saffron rice or hummus. It may just be that Greeks are emulating Americans love of meat and potato meals, and we, Americans, are emulating Greeks. Basically, good luck finding American Style Mediterranean food on the mainland of Greece, they appear to be getting along fine on meat and potato diets.
Tomorrow we make our way back to Athens slowly via a driver who will take us through Trikala and Delphi.
Travel Note: Expect to adjust slowly to the time zone in part due to the typically late meal periods in Greece (9AM or 10AM breakfast--even the rare Starbucks doesn't open until 9AM, lunch around 3pm, a long coffee social hour ahead of a 9PM or 10PM dinner, bedtime around 12AM). Expect set backs, and prepare for naps when most Greeks are having coffee before dinner, which may mean waking around 3AM and possibly deciding just to stay awake until the train arrives like Madeline and James did.
